How to Mold with Excalibur
These are both examples of ways you can mold Excalibur.
You’ll need at least, a way to protect your work surface, a scrapping device, your mold, a way to measure, mix, and hold your liquid Excalibur. Paper towels are not a bad thing to have on hand, if your are accident prone it would be prudent.
The last three I’ve combined in the plastic cup methods see the page on Measuring for how to make and use one.
Having a scraper on hand is handy, usually just pick one up at your local hardware store for paint will work fine. I’ve tried this with the one’s you can find in ceramic kits and they are both short and usually have an edge that may cause issues as well.
Work surface I use two options:
Disposable table cloth piece. Your grocery store may have these plastic/paper mix disposable table cloth for picnics, and they work well and cut into easy sheets. The minion is displaying this option for you above.
Heavy Paper plates. I’m not talking the paper flimsy ones, they usually have a raised edge that won’t let the mold fit and do not always sit flat. Chinet have worked well with only one or two having a bump in the middle. Foam plates sometimes come in rectangles (not the divided ones), and unlike paper plates, the excess pops right off leading to being able to be reused.
Prep your Mold
I suggest doing this before you start mixing Excalibur because it will set in decent time. The other option is you get a final product of hardened cup contents… that may not come out of the plastic cup.
You can find Mold Prepping Instructions following the link.
These are the conversions for what goes into a single batch use. Measure each ingredient separately and then mix together. I’ve listed the different conversions of the same amounts — choose one from Water and Excalibur. (not shown in pictures)
|44 milliliters||200 grams|
|1.5 US fluid ounces||7 ounces|
|3 US tablespoons or 9 US teaspoons||0.44 pounds|
|1.5 Imperial fluid ounces|
|2.5 Imperial tablespoons or 7.5 Imperial teaspoons|
Quick Mixing Method (as shown in pictures) – the water absorbs the plaster as you add it,
|Water: 1.25 US fluid ounces||Excalibur: 1.25 US fluid ounces||Total Batch: US fluid 3.5 ounces|
If making 1.25 ounces is a bit of a challenge, just go for a 1 to 1 ratio. 3.5 ounces is a standard castlemold mold.
This is where your plastic cup method is useful, if you add your water to your cup and then fill the rest of the way with Excalibur you will end around the 3.5 ounce mark.
Then start to mix it, I suggest mixing for at least a good minute. Keep in mind this will be a very thin mixture if you are used to molding with plaster of paris or similar materials.
Pour into your mold!!
I’ve not seen any difference between pouring on the ridges or pouring into the shape directly. In the long run I can see it helping with the crispness of the edges over time to use the ridges.
Excalibur has some major differences from Merlin’s Magic if your used to using Merlin’s.
For this I highly recommend more than Merlin’s the paper plate method. Excalibur will separate from stone and water parts! You will eventually will end up with what looks like a layer of water on top of your mold. You need to let it sit longer before smoothing the edges out, or you will end up with shorter pieces because you just scrapped part of the stone off before it settled down.
|Ten Minutes Later|
No really ten minutes later — just don’t touch it!*
* If you have a highly dry area – notably if running a dehumidifier, this may be sooner. Use your best judgement.
|Five Minutes Later (i.e. Fifteen Minutes from pouring)|
Gently pull the pieces from the mold, repeat as many times as you need to for your project!
Allow the pieces to completely dry before adding glue for assembly.